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 Tom Moores                                last Updated 1/30/2001

I have recently returned from the Khumbu region of Nepal having become one of the youngest people ever to climb Ama Dablam at the age of 18. The experience was my first of Nepal and has inspired me to return to the greater ranges. 

Long Term Plans

-  In the long term I intend to attempt to be the youngest person ever to climb K2. There will be an opportunity to attempt K2 in 2002 with an American non-commercial venture run by Gary Pfisterer. We will not use supplementary oxygen or Sherpas above Base Camp.

-  Beyond K2 I would like to attempt more technical climbs in remote areas. South America and particularly Patagonia holds great interest for me along with the Himalayas.

Short Term Plans

I have short term plans to prepare for an attempt on K2. 

- My first short term objective is an expedition to Lhotse, to gain experience at 8000m. This I am attempting in spring 2001 with Gary Pfisterer. As with K2 there will be no supplementary oxygen or Sherpas above Base Camp. 

- My next objective is a 5 week expedition to the French Alps in June 2001. I will be based in Chamonix with the aim of gaining additional technical experience. 

Sponsorship

            Why sponsorship? The answer is simple, I am going to be putting myself in hazardous situations when my life will be at risk. I obviously want the best equipment I can find to make my life as comfortable as possible and limit the inevitable risks. However, as I’m sure you can appreciate Himalayan mountaineering isn’t cheap, I simply cannot afford to fund my expeditions and buy the equipment I need. I believe I can work with companies to provide media coverage and an efficient return of any investment. At the moment I am receiving sponsorship support from:

Helly Hansen - Technical climbing clothing

Terra Nova - Tents and Extremities clothing

DB Outdoor Systems - Edelrid climbing hardwear

Deuter climbing equipment

 

Climbing Resume

Wales Mountaineering 

Tryfan North Ridge Feb 1999 and Feb 2000

Heather Terrace Feb 1999 and Feb 2000

Glyders Bristley Ridge Feb 2000

Snowdon  W.Ridge Cwm Glas Feb 1999

Crib y Ddysgl Feb 2000

(Parsley Fern gully grade II/III lead)

Rock Climbing

Tremadog (HVS/E1 Lead) June 1998

Bus Stop Quarry Fools Gold (E2 Lead) June 1998

 

Alps – Les Ecrins Mountaineering

 

Col de Claphouse Snow skills and overnight June 1997 and 2000         Col de la Temple Voie Normale  June 1997 and 2000

Glacier Blanc Ice climbing (short pitch June 1997 and 2000

Dome des Ecrins Voie Normale (4015m) June 1997

Pic de Neige Cordier West Ridge (3618m) June 2000   

Roche Emile Voie Normale (3589m) June 2000

Rock Climbing

Fissure D’Ailefroid Difficile June 2000

Merci La Vie French 7a+  June 2000

Le James Bond French 6c+ June 2000 

Silver Belette Band French 6c+ June 2000

Pyrenees Rock Climbing and many others

Swanage

Stroof E1 5c June 2000

Transcript Direct VS 4c June 2000

Baboon VS 4c June 2000

Graunchy Grippers HVS 5b June 2000

Himalayas

Ama Dablam Assez Dificile  October 2000 SW Ridge

As you can see its not the most outstanding CV. My best rock climb is only French 7a+ (English E4/E5) but hopefully it will improve steadily, especially over this summer.

Ama Dablam (6856m)

            Ama Dablam is possibly on of the most aesthetically pleasing mountains in the world. I first saw a picture in a brochure in early 1999. It grabs you and pulls your interest towards it. That was it, I was hooked. As my first Himalayan peak I was without previous experience, this was all totally new to me.

            Getting to the mountain was no problem. The easy stroll from Lukla to Base camp was only ever interrupted by the low monotonous drone of the yak bell. I was somewhat concerned whenever these huge beasts drew near, having recently been informed of just how violent they can spontaneously become. 

            Base Camp was situated at 4800m over two vertical kilometers below the summit. After a days rest we had an acclimatisation trek up to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) about 100m below camp 1. Then returned to the warmth and relative comfort of Base Camp. 

The next day we ascended 1000m up to camp 1 for the night. The altitude gain was too much and after vomiting once I decided to return to ABC and see how I felt in the morning. At this point I probably felt the most disheartened. The summit was still 1 kilometer above me and I wasn’t feeling good. Although I had plenty of time I would now be a full day behind the rest of the group. But the next morning I felt better and moved up to camp 1. I spent the day resting, acclimatizing and drinking huge amounts of fluids. 

After an unusually restful night I moved up towards camp two. This I enjoyed basking in the warm sunshine stripping down to thermal long johns and a t-shirt. My spirit soared and I began to really enjoy the relatively easy scrambling. That evening I returned to base camp. 

I was now a day behind the rest of the group who were resting by the time I strolled into base camp, content with my progress and looking forward to the final push up to the summit. I had two days to rest at base camp and catch up on my reading, suntan and get a massage from one of the team members. 

The final climb to the summit would be a straightforward ascent from camp 1 to 2 to 3 Then up to the summit and back to 1. The climbing between camps 1 and 2 was relatively easy rock scrambling made more challenging by the altitude and backpacks. From camp 2 to 3 the climbing was mixed and ice climbing again relatively easy but exhilarating none the less. The spectacular views helped take my mind off my aching calf muscles. I spent the night at camp three feeling more than a little below the weather. I took a Diamox tablet along with liters of fluid and felt better. On summit day we woke at 3:00am I felt tired and had a slight headache but was otherwise fit and ready to go. The last few hundred meters climb up to the summit was painful and cold. Being out of the suns light until the summit we never had a chance to warm up and thaw cold extremities. Stepping onto the summit was different from how I expected. I thought there would be an adrenaline rush and a surge of happiness, I thought I’d jump in the air and shout for joy. But I didn’t, mostly I didn’t have the energy. But it was a quiet feeling of contentment. 

The decent took until the sun dropped from the sky at 6:00pm and I collapsed into my tent and got a brew on. Before dropping into a deep, comforting sleep. 

Tom Moores

Tom is expected to be a member of Gary Pfisterer (Leader of the Successful American International K2 2000 Expedition) Lhotse Spring 2001 Expedition. Gary, a veteran of expeditions to 8000 meter peaks will attempt Lhotse with a team that includes Everest Summiter Tony Tonsing. Much more on this expedition and other team members in the coming weeks. EverestNews.com plans on some reports from this expedition during the Spring. 

Update: His Summit of Lhotse Spring 2001

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