8000 Meter Peaks

Cho Oyu
Nanga Parbat
Broad Peak

Seven Summits

Vinson Massif
Carstensz Pyramid
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This August/September this team of six international climbers will be attempting to climb Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain in the world, without either the aid of oxygen or sherpas.

THE CLIMB in their words !

The climb of an 8000m mountain is, still today, a major achievement. Even though all the mountains above 8000m have been climbed many times and by many routes, none of them can be considered trivial.

A climb of this nature requires special equipment for high altitude: clothing, tents, sleeping bags, super-light climbing gear. The gear must be tested beforehand, the food chosen for its weight as much as its performance (to provide for aerobic work with lack of oxygen and serious dehydration). Physical fitness is paramount, since you cannot rely on any kind of external help on short notice.

The key to high altitude climbing is acclimatisation. During acclimatisation, the body slowly adjusts to lack of oxygen, creating a greater number of red blood cells in the body. Good acclimatization involves at least two or three weeks between the altitudes of 4000 to 7000 meters.

To counter this, the approach to the mountain will be gradual: we will arrive in Base Camp at about 5000 meters. From there, with the help of yaks for carrying gear, we will get to Advanced Base Camp up on a rocky moraine at 5700 meters of altitude.

At this point, we will start installing the higher camps, first at 6400m, then C2 near 6900m and last C3 at 7400m. The camps will be stored with everything necessary for summit bids and some parts of the route will be fixed with rope in order to facilitate the transport of the loads. The ascent includes a few technical passages in the seracs above Camp 1, a delicate rock passage above Camp 2 and the crossing of steep snow slopes also above Camp 3. Major risks on this route are strong winds (frostbite) and heavy snow falls (avalanches).

Everything we use on the mountain will be removed upon completion of the climb in order to leave the place exactly as we found it. The climb will be organized around the fitness of individuals, the conditions of the mountain. The weather, if bad, can cancel any kind of effort. At those altitudes the last words always comes from the mountain.

 1  Arrive Katmandu and transfer to
 2 - 4  Stay in Katmandu and Tibet visa procedures.
 5  Drive to Zangmu.
 6  Drive to Nyalam.
 7  Nyalam, acclimatisation day.
 8  Drive to Tingri.
 9  Tingri, acclimatisation day.
 10  Drive to Base Camp.
 11 - 13  Stay at Base Camp and prepare the ascent.
 14  Advance Base Camp
 15  Stay at A.B.C
 16 - 37  Climbing Period.
 38  Return to A.B.C.
 39 Base Camp
 40  Cleaning up Base Camp.
 41  Drive to Zangmu.
 42 Drive to Katmandu
 43 - 44  Stay in Katmandu.
 45  Departure

Further Information.
- The Climbers of the Marconi Cho Oyu Expedition 2000..
- The Climb/Itinerary of the Marconi Cho Oyu Expedition 2000.
- Expedition Data
of the Marconi Cho Oyu Expedition 2000.

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