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 American Everest 2002 Expedition

With a Ski Descent planned!

22 December 2001: Here it is almost Christmas and our expedition to Mt. Everest is only a few months away.   We have lots to do to get ready.

11 January 2002: Planning and preparations continue for the trip.

28 February 2002: Our tickets are purchased, our deposits are paid and we are finalizing equipment and clothing needs with our sponsors. Our scheduled departure date has changed to 3 April 2002.

March 25, 2002: We have received gear and food from our sponsors and are busy doing the final sorting, packing and many last minute things in preparation for our expedition's scheduled departure date of 3 April 2002 (next Wednesday).  We are eager to get started!

Due to travel requirements, Adrian is scheduled to depart Park City, UT for Kathmandu on Friday, 29 March and will meet up with Jim and Scott at BC (Base Camp).  Jim and Scott will depart Denver the morning of 3 April. Correction to above: Adrian departed Salt Lake City for Kathmandu on Sunday, 31 March.  Jim and Scott have sorted and packed all their food and gear and tested all the communications equipment.   They depart Denver Wednesday morning, 3 April.  They are busy doing last minute things necessary in order to be gone for 65-70 days and are saying their good-byes to loved ones.

April 3, 2002: Jim and Scott departed for Kathmandu this morning at 9:40a MST.

Saturday, 6 April 2002 from Kathmandu, Nepal

Sunday, 7 April 2002 from Kathmandu, Nepal

Thursday, 11 April 2002 from Lhasa, Tibet: We arrived in Lhasa on the 9th after a wonderful flight through the Himalaya. We passed very close to Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Cho Oyu, Kangchenjunga and so many others. It was an awesome flight! We picked up Henry Todd ...

Friday, 12 April 2002 from Xigatse (Shigatse): We are in Xigatse now. We left Lhasa at 10:00am and arrived here at 4:00p. It was a beautiful drive up a valley surrounded by snow-capped peaks. Alex and I visited the Tashilhimpo monastery. 

Update #5: Monday, 15 April 2002 from Everest BC (north side): Jim and Scott arrived in BC on the 14th to find a vibrant and energetic Adrian waiting for them. He had arrived on the 13th and was acclimating very well, although he still has a bit of the same Kathmandu cough (from the air pollution) as Jim still has.

Update #6: Tuesday, 16 April 2002 from Everest BC (north side): Today Adrian, Scott and Jim went for an acclimatization hike, with Adrian leaving a little ahead of the other two because they were fumbling around camp.... Check here for the full dispatch.

4/18/2002 Pictures

Saturday, 20 April 2002 from ABC: I received a satellite phone call from Jim this morning to tell me the team arrived safely at ABC on the 19th. The laptop battery is dead and they are charging it so they can send a more complete update with pictures later today.  Check here for the full dispatch.

Dispatch #7: Sunday, 21 April 2002, from ABC: We have the laptop PC up and running again at ABC now and should be able to update every day we are at ABC. We have the communications tent set up with the phone, pc, and solar panels about. Now the updates for the past few days... Check here for the full dispatch.

Dispatch #8: Monday, 22 April 2002, from ABC: From Jim: The Puja was awesome as usual. This is always one of my favorite parts of an expedition in the Himalaya. The expedition does not officially begin until this ceremony takes place and no Sherpa would dare venture onto the mountain without it first.... Check here for the full dispatch.

Dispatch #9: Wednesday, 23 April 2002, from ABC: From Jim: Yesterday, the 23rd, we woke up at 6:30 am and had breakfast at 7:00. We left for Camp 1 at just after 8:00 am. As we left ABC, 6,440 meters [21,130'], we headed up the lateral moraine that runs along or parallel to the glacier that ABC is on. We followed this moraine (pile of rocks deposited by the glacier as it melts) up a slight incline for about a mile and a gain of a few hundred vertical feet. This was loose and rocky terrain and was tough while wearing huge Everest boots. It also undulates somewhat, making for tedious travel up or down... Check here for the full dispatch.

Update: Friday, 26 April 2002, via Satellite phone call from ABC: Jim called last night [which was actually 1:00 pm on the 26th on Everest] for some phone support of a laptop PC technical problem. Seems the laptop does not like the cold temperatures and had crashed. They had it back up, but needed my help with some email settings. Check here for the full dispatch.

Update: Saturday, 27 April 2002, via satellite phone call from Scott at ABC to his fianceť, Adrienne: I am sorry to say the hard drive is apparently shot on Scott's lap top computer. Big bummer! They think they may be able to borrow another computer once and a while from the other teams. Let us hope so! Check here for the full dispatch.

Update Monday, 29 April 2002: Our team is very frustrated at this point. When their tent blew away in the high winds at Camp 4 they lost all of their stoves except one, as well as their cook pots, several full Titanium fuel bottles and other important gear they had stored inside the tent. They are currently checking with several other teams in ABC to see if they can locate one tent, at least one more stove, a cook pot, etc... Check here for the full dispatch.

Update: Wednesday evening, 1 May 2002, The team is still waiting out the bad weather. Adrian went down to BC, but Jim and Scott remained at ABC. They hope to make a carry to Camp 1 soon. Jim said he thinks there is a good chance they will be able to replace some or all of the equipment blown off the mountain at Camp 1... Check here for the full dispatch.

Update: Dispatch May 3rd, 2002, Phone call from Jim at ABC: On 2 May, Jim and Scott climbed back up to Camp 1 on the North Col, carrying loads of 30-40 pounds each, to re-establish Camp 1. They chopped out another level place for the tent and erected a Bibler Fitz-Roy tent... Check here for the full dispatch.  

Update Wednesday, 8 May 2002, Voice mail message from Jim at ABC: Jim and Scott were going up to Camp 1 today, spend the night, then go to Camp 2 and set it up. They also hope to carry some gear up to Camp 3 at 8,200 meters (26,900 feet) before returning to ABC and BC to rest up for a summit push. Check here for the full dispatch.  

Update 14 May 2002, Phone call from Jim at BC: Jim and Scott are ending the expedition and returning to the USA and home. They have already brought all their gear down from Camp 1 and ABC to BC and are leaving today to return to Kathmandu. Check here for the full dispatch.


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Scott with the video, laptop, communications gear and solar charging panels