(Transcribed from satellite phone voice message)
American Ski Everest Expedition: We
just got the weather forecast after 3 days at base
camp of snow and extremely high winds. The extended
forecast is really really good with nothing expected
on the horizon for the next week, and the next 2 weeks
looking good at this point. We head back up tomorrow
to ABC, it will be a huge day with 4000 vertical feet
and about 14 miles. But we are very well rested, plus
we have already slept there for 2 nights. It should
not be as difficult as the first time, however we will
not have an intermediate camp.
Apparently talking with the local
experts, Russ [Brice], [inaudible], Wickwire, etc...
we are still about 2 weeks out from the climbing
season, which should explain why the people who were
running up the North Col, really got blasted in this
last storm. Apparently, in talking with 2 people, 3
tents got completely blown off the Col. The 2 guys I
talked with said they experienced 60-70 mph winds,
pretty good snow fall and extremely cold
temperature. In the climbing world, we got lucky. We
got up, set up phase 1, and got down here [base camp].
Apparently, even the high winds down here are rare. We
got our base camp tents from our trekking company,
Asian trekking. We did not have out tents down here.
What they provided are just not made for those type of
conditions, we probably had 40-50 mph winds down here,
cold temperatures and 6 inches of snow. They [Asian
trekking] did not expect conditions like that.
But we are well rested, everybody is healthy.
We are heading back up tomorrow to
start phase 2. We are tentatively scheduled to rest
one day once we get up there. Then we will make 2
carries to establish camp 1 at the North Col with our
V 45 North Face tents and all the fuel we need. We are
looking forward to heading back up tomorrow, we do
have the schedule starting out with all 9 members
doing the carries. However, we fully expect this will
be unrealistic. Some of the members will need more
rest. We do fully expect that with at least 4 of us,
we will have that camp [camp 1] set up within 4 days.
That is it, we will do another
dispatch tomorrow on April 22nd, when we get to ABC.
Everybody is happy, everybody is extremely excited to
get out of base camp. And to get going with this, and
this evening for the first time is about 4 evening,
there is a nice calm air, with no wind, and it
is not even that cold. Mike