Two Update below.....
4.14.03 Audio Update
Transcription: This written account is a transcription of a voicemail message
that John Roskelley. The call was made from Mt. Everest via a Telenor
"Well, good afternoon. This
is John Roskelley from Everest base camp. This is a voicemail update from
advanced base camp on the north side of Mt. Everest. We awoke this morning to
3" of fresh, cold, powder snow. There is a slight breeze with gusts up to 25
mph. It's brilliantly clear, but all along the northeast ridge and north
ridge, wind devils indicate strong winds crossing over Everest from Nepal.
Since my last update, Jim, Jess and I have moved up to acclimatize and carry
loads to the North Col. Dick started out with us on April 11 to the
intermediate camp, but due to his continuing back problems, decided to spend a
few more days at base camp. Jess and I arrived Thursday at the Intermediate
Camp, and its fortunate that we did. It seems as though all the teams and
their gear were moving up that day. As we sat and watched, hundreds of yaks
loaded with tents, gear bags, their own food and assorted baggage arrived.
There was a limited supply of rocky campsites available, so it was literally
chaos in a small area. Yaks tore through the camp, tearing down tents, and
dumping loads in all directions. After several hours, of this, peace again
reigned, and only the sound of yak bells could be heard.
April 12th was a hard day. We got up early to beat the yaks onto the glacier,
but were too slow. After a good breakfast of porridge, eggs and toast, I set
off to film the exodus of yaks, yak herders and expedition members from camp
toward ABC–about 7 miles and 2,000 vertical feet up the glacier. Pretty soon,
everyone and their beasts of burden got into a rhythm behind each other and we
strung out for miles along the crest of morrainal debris sitting on ice. I
have never seen anything like this. I reached our camp at 21,000 feet after 5
hours of work under a fairly heavy load. Jess was right behind, enjoying
talking with several other climbers from Britain. Jim, caught in the main
herd, took his time and arrived later, feeling strong.
I call altitude the "great equalizer." No matter how young, strong, or
healthy, altitude puts you on par with everyone else. I am always surprised
how rubbery my legs feel, and how slow I can go until I become used to the
higher altitude at each stage. Of course, age has entered the equation this
trip, and I am not the same climber as I was 10 years ago. It is important for
me to accept this now, because it is only going to get tougher up higher, and
I need to go slower.
We relaxed all that afternoon, drinking fluids and trying not to make any
sudden moves that would leave us...
4.16.03 Audio Update Transcription: This written account is a transcription of
a voicemail message that John Roskelley. The call was made from Mt. Everest
via a Telenor satellite phone. The initial rough audio is due strong winds
blowing at the 21,000' Advanced Base Camp. Static breaks up the audio at the
Good morning. It is Wednesday, April 16th, at about 10 o'clock. The team is at
Advanced Base Camp. Jim is in his tent, writing in his diary, and Jess and I
are just finishing tea. Dick is somewhere between Intermediate Camp at 19,000'
and being here at Advanced Base camp at 21,000 feet. We are still
acclimatizing. It is out 5th day here. Jess and I took some loads up to the
North Col, at about 23,000 feet, yesterday and felt pretty good. The Russians
have put the ropes in to the Col, and about 50 people went up yesterday and
staked out areas for their tents. Today, three of our Sherpas went up, to put
up the tents that Jess and I carried up.
It is a windy day, but it is clear and about 40º. We are hoping that Dick will
make it up today, and if not, tomorrow. I am sitting in the midst of about 100
tents, in a lenticular fashion that goes up hill from 21,000 feet to 21,600
feet at the top where the Chinese are camped. There are all types of colors. I
have never seen this many tents in one spot. Big, huge tents for cooking and
for people to eat in, and other tents for just sleeping in.
There are probably 30 different expeditions here this year, on this side, and
it is pretty crowded. The Sherpas have been building tent platforms all
throughout this entire area. I kind of call it "Illzong Loo" (unintelligible),
because you are in a little tiered fashion in elevation gain... (static)...
Russians... (static)... Austrians above me... (static)... it's quite an