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 Chilean Expedition to Gasherbrum I


Yesterday 2 of August arrived at Santiago the mountaineers that conquered for Chile the summit of the mount Pakistani Gasherbrum I, located to 8,068 meters on the level of the sea.

In a loaded atmosphere of found feelings, the seven mountaineers of the Expedition " Gasherbrum I, new eight thousands for Chile " were received in the Airport Arturo Merino Benνtez, of the Branch of Andinismo of the University of Santiago of Chile.

There was joy by the encounter and enough emotion at the moment at which the head of the expedition, Luis Alvarez, greeted and gave a long hug to the wife of professor Claudius Gαlvez, deceased during the reduction of the mount. With dense beards and several kilos of weight less, the first Chileans in making summit in the " hidden mount " received the welcome of relatives, representatives of the University of Santiago, partners of the Branch of Andinismo and mass media journalists diverse.

Luis Alvarez, who conquered the summit next to professor Claudius Gαlvez, talked about that great moment. " We felt happy... Claudius said that this he would be his last eight thousands, who was due to take step to the new generations " declared single Alvarez to minutes of his exit of the room of arrivals.

Tomorrow Friday a mass will be made in the memory of the Teacher Claudius Gαlvez, to 19:30 hours, in the church Our Mrs. of Pompeya (Bustamante 180).

Also tribute on the part of the Branch of Andinismo inquired into the preparation of a great act of the University of Santiago of Chile, the one that will be made the 30 of August in the Magna Classroom of University of Santiago of Chile.

Karakorum Committee

Branch of Andinismo of the University of Santiago of Chile

Arrival to Skardu Official notice of Luis Alvarez - Head Expedition.

After of 6 day of long walk along with the shippers baltis among of glaciers and cords bears of the Karakorum mountain, the expeditionary ones arrived at the town of Skardu without new development.

During this passage they were affected by numerous storms of snow and rain, that delayed his arrival to the town.

Luis Alvarez said the state of the climbers is good and very anxious to undertake flight to Chile. Alvarez mentions that to remain in this town until after he had to fill out all the documents on the death of the Head of Expedition - Claudius Galvez).

The flight to Santiago of Chile leaves same the day 1 August via British Airways with scales in Europe and South America. The arrival to Santiago is confirmed, we waited for several official notices of expedition during these days. Alvarez commented that the expeditions in Base Camp made a tribute to the deceased Head of Expedition Claudius Galvez: The 24 expeditions made an religious act and placed flags to average spear, of these 21 were to Gasherbrum II and the 3 for Gasherbrum I. Spiritual leaders of the Islam offered a banquet and elevated plegarias in favor of Claudius Galvez. [not sure of all the words here...]

Communicated aim of Luis Alvarez
Carlos Sanchez - Karakorum 2001

Official Report on the death of Claudius Galvez from the Chilean Expedition

UNIVERSIDAD DE SANTIAGO DE CHILE: Director of Communications


The noted mountaineer Claudio Galvez Santibαρez, instructor of high mountain and professor at University de Santiago de Chile, was tragically killed Tuesday July 9th at 15:25 Hrs, in Pakistan, after having reached the summit of Mount Gasherbrum I, 8068 meters high, with an expedition of seven members of the climbing branch at USACH, of which he was its technical director.

The sportsman, who reached the highest summits in South America, North America, Europe and also Broad Peak, had conquered three hours before his death the summit of Mount Gasherbrum I together with mountaineer Luis Alvarez, at 12:15 Hrs local time.  Galvez, 45, died during descent from Gasherbrum I, in the middle of a storm, he slipped at 300 meters below the summit and fell down the glacier 1500 meters suffering instant death.  Professor Gαlvez's remains were buried, according to his own will in life, in the same mountain by his teammates and the members of other expeditions who were in the place.  According to the last satellite communication from Pakistan, the rest of the USACH expedition, Mαximo Bobardiere, Vνctor Fierro, Daniel Rutllant, Christian Cross-Buchanan, Rodrigo Suαrez and Alex Cattan, are in good physical conditions at Camp I, installed 6000 meters high, where they will begin their descent which represents no big technical difficulties.

Luis Alvarez, the other mountaineer who reached the summit, descended to Base Camp, at 5300 meters and on July 12th he reunited with the rest of his teammates.  This expedition to Mount Gasherbrum I, also called Hidden Peak, which has been prepared for two years, had left Santiago on June 2nd to Pakistan.  Santiago, July 12th, 2001. Source: RAMA DE ANDINISMO USACH Carlos Sαnchez

Three New reports below:

Update 7/12/2001: On Friday 13 of July will be a Mass in memory of Claudius Gαlvez. This mass will in the Central Gymnasium of the University of Santiago of Chile. The access is by Avda Ecuador 3555 (ex School of Arts and Office) Carlos Sanchez

Claudius Claudio Galvez (45 years old) was married with three children. He had 30 years of experience climbing. He had reached the Summit of Broad Peak 07/10/1999.

Update 7/12/2001: Tragic death of the Chilean Expeditionary Claudius Galvez in the Hidden Peak 

Thursday 12 of Julio 2001 4:00 AM

Chilean Expedition Gasherbrum I University of Santiago of Chile.

Sat phone official notice of Luis Alvarez Thursday 12 of Julio 12:30 A.M..

After having reached successful the summit of Gasherbrum I day on the 9th July 12:10 PM. by climbers Claudius Galvez and Luis Alvarez. A fatal accident happened during the reduction to 300 meters of the summit of the Hidden Peak, the Head of Expedition Claudius Galvez passes away in a fatal fall to the 3:25 PM.

He had a fall of but of 1,500 meters during the descent from the summit of the Hidden Peak. We who participated in this expedition are hurt deeply by this great loss of our teacher, comrade and sport outstanding of National Mountaineering. Claudius Galvez, Head of expedition and experiment Mountaineering national and international accompany now to his companion of Mountain Sergio Zarate passed away tragically in February of this year. 

His body will remain for always in the mountain as he showed as desire to it in case of passing away in this. The rest of the expeditionary ones is at the moment arranged to descend from the Camp 1 towards the Base Camp and then return to Santiago of Chile.

Branch of Andinismo University of Santiago of Chile.
Carlos Sαnchez - Communications Expedition Gasherbrum I 2001

Update 7/12/2001: On 7/11/2001 3:35pm... EverestNews.com received the first report: "Bad news: The liaison officer of Chilean Gasherbrum I Expedition Captain Assad, called from Gasherbrum I Base Camp. He said that the leader of Chilean Gasherbrum I Expedition, Mr. Claudio Elias Galvez Santibanez has died after a climb to the Summit. He and his partner Luis Wolfgang Alvarez Carrasco were descending after their climb and Claudio died due to a fall between Camp III and Camp IV. His dead body was found at Camp II. He will be buried at Camp II in a crevasse. More news yet to come... Essar Karim"

Knowing that the family might not have knowledge of the event. EverestNews.com notified Carlos Sanchez of the expedition that there was bad news on the expedition and withheld the name on yesterday edited report.

Update 7/12/2001: Chilean leader died on GI

According to reports from the base camp, Chilean Gasherbrum I expedition leader Claudio Galvez a professor in the university slipped between camp 3 and camp 2 on his way down from summit. His body was buried in a crevasse.

Claudio made the summit with Luis Alverez and both were coming down when this accident happened. 

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

7/11/2001 3:35pm...

Older Updates: The Expedition has begun: The expeditionary ones have already undertaken trip course to Pakistan. At 8:30 hours (in Chile) of the day Saturday 2 of June they took off by airplane. Through Buenos Aires, London and Nueva Delhi before arriving at Islamabad, Pakistani capital.

The previous hours to the trip, they were loaded with nervousness. Also much anxiety, mainly for Max Bombardiere, Victor Iron, Alex Cattan, Daniel Ruttlant, Rodrigo Suarez and Christian Cross- Buchanan, who will for the first time try to reach the summit of " eight thousands ".

Thursdays 31 of May made the official launching of the expedition in the Hall Honer of the University of Santiago of Chile. In this, they related to a group of Chilean journalists the characteristics of the expedition and why Gasherbrum I did not register any ascension during year 2000.

In Chile, we waited for anxiously for the first report from Pakistan. We will be informing on all the details of the expedition " Gasherbrum I, new eight thousands for Chile ".

Monday 4 of June of 2001

Arrival to Pakistan: In good conditions and without problems the eight members of the expedition Gasherbrum I arrived Monday at Pakistan ".

The sportsmen, of the Branch of Andinismo of the University of Santiago of Chile, indicated that although the trip was long, everything was excellent. Before arriving at Islamabad they made transfers in Buenos Aires, London and Nueva Delhi.

One of the expeditionary ones, Victor Iron, publicista of our university, said that not yet (+9) were accustomed to the hour change. The already had contact with the official - representing of the Pakistani government - who will accompany them in the course by all the expedition. In the same way they knew the cook who will accompany them until the field bases.

According to the plan, the climbers will began their approach to the Karakorum mountain range on Thursday June 7th.

Thursday 7 of June of 2001

We are a little behind here. We will be getting you caught up soon.

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