Nanga Parbat 2001 Expedition
German Amical Alpin expedition Mr.
Ralf Dujmovits [Summits of Everest, K2, etc...] from Germany
7/5/2001: Summiteers on
this expedition there was 186 Summits on Nanga Parbat
with 61 deaths.
Nanga Parbat Basecamp (4250m), Tuesday, 03.07.2001
Alpin Nanga Parbat expedition successfully and
accident free !
is a rough translation)
The ascent had
many highs and lows. I would like to
describe to you our Summit climb:
11 days of bad weather Charly Gabl, director/conductor
of the weather service place Innsbruck a weather
opening. We were in almost daily contact over the
satellite telephone and thereby reliably a part of our
success is given to the excellent weather reports from
Innsbruck. One week beforehand he announced the best
summit weather forecast to us for last Friday. Because
of the quantity of snow that had fallen and this snow
had to set itself sufficiently, in order to expose us
to no avalanche danger, we had to wait. Besides strong
winds had shipped each quantity of snow - and the wind
is as well known the building master of the
it meant despite sunshine at the beginning of this
week we were still in base camp waiting. On Monday
afternoon Rosa and Theresia started up for Camp 1. A
person coming down pointed out clearly that the weather was
not yet stable. The following night the
remainder of the crew rose after - directly starting
from BC the 1750 meter steep climb to camp 2. The
new-fallen snow the last day made it difficult. The
fixed rope were deep in the snow and we have to dig
and laboriously pull them from the snow or ice.
to Camp 2
fought a completely frozen
Kinshofer wall up the mountain, it looked as,
in the deepest of winter. When we arrived a large
shock came for us. Who would had expected, our camp II
tents had disappeared. Where ten days ago there were
seven tents, now there was only white.
We dug and
worked for four hours. Because of the wet new-fallen snow high
over a meter, the linkages had penetrated and broken and
partially also because of the tent walls had broken water
linked in. Many liters of melt water in sleeping
bags. Rosa's dry sleeping bag was rescued. Most
linkages were repaired and we repaired holes in the tents and
sometime around 18:00 o'clock I had some warm tea.
plan was good. The next day was hard climbing up to
the depot at 6500 meters. But in the afternoon
everyone had made it back to Camp 2 in time to drink
By the way in
the meantime Veikka Gustafsson - (we climbed together in 94 on
K2 - had followed us. His partner, the American Ed Viesturs,
was convinced the new-fallen snow quantities was not going to
be mastered and besides wanted for family reasons to return
home. So I welcomed Veikka, and was glad to have Veikka, an
old friend, and a strong climber in our crew.
the tents in Camp 2
recovered on Thursday, (that was 6/28), we were
climbing up. Hirotaka, our Japanese member, climbed
alone with unbelievable strength the entire slope and
kept in track. We soon set up our tents at Camp 3at
6750 meters. We melted snow for water and cooked
the way to Camp 3
Camp 3 we go !
On Friday, 6/29,
our climbing group formed. Hirotaka, started at 4:30am, and
Qudrat Emrodin and I followed in track in the direction of
Camp 4. We climbed in defiance of the deep snow. We alternated
the lead keeping in track well. Some old fixed rope, which we
pulled from the meter to deep snow, helped to traverse us up
the giant slope. Meter after meters we preceded up the slope
and other climbers had caught up. We arrived at the top of the
legendary Bazin hollow.
the ascent to Camp 4
after Camp 4
1 and 1/2 hours later we were at a nice spot
which have less steep places than the slopes of
the Bazin hollow at 7100 m. Glad we did not have
to carry the heavy backpacks further, we set up
Camp 4. There was still 1000 meters for the
tomorrow's summit day, but the snow was harden
in some places very well and we were full of
optimism for the day ahead.
At 00:00 o'clock
the alarm whistled, we made breakfast and set out at 1:30
o'clock. We kept in track together crosswise by the Bazin
hollow, everyone always 10 - 30 meters together. We advanced
well up the mountain and traversed the summit trapezoid.
Charly Gabl should sleep quite well. The best day had been
Friday, but Saturday was also well and that was it. A
beautiful sunrise showed the shadow of the entire size of our
the summit trapezoid
Nanga Parbat at 4 o'clock
with shadows of Nanga Parbat
the right section of the Summit trapezoid of
within the summit trapezoid was not simple, but somehow - with
the assistance of the photo of a Spanish climbing friend - we
found the correct way toward the main summit. Approx. 45 - 50°
steep slope we climbed for a long time upward. What luck that
the storms of two days ago had carried the snow out of this
area. If we would have found the same quantities of deep snow
here as we met in the lower section, we would have had no
the summit ice gutter
- still 150m to Summit
The whole team
was impressed by the ability of Hiro to pick the right line.
His readiness to perform and kept in track to the top of the
summit gutter almost completely alone. The summit was first
achieved at 9:00 o'clock. We remained around three hours at
the summit and enjoyed a light wind a fantastic panorama
of the entire Karakorum. It was impressive for me. Above
6-7000 m of low views toward Indus and Astor valley were
the most impressive was the fast arrival of Theresia !
Even at 50 years old !!! (sorry, one should not say
actually!). She had fought upward with much
enthusiasm, motivation and outstanding preparation as
a first German woman to Summit Nanga Parbat.
Congratulations to us all. Next came Eva Zarzuelo, we
were so overjoyed as she became the first Spanish
woman to Summit Nanga Parbat.
Top: Hochtrδger Qudrat Ali, Ralf, Veikka
Gustafsson, Steffen Mayr, Klaus-Dieter Grohs
Koch- first German woman on the Summit of Nanga
12:00 o'clock I said good-bye to the summit, to the target of
a dream of mine of many years. I met about 150 meters below
the summit on our two climbers and Veikka, which had waited,
since Werner could not continue because of acute altitude
problems. I descended together with Werner, but Magnus
continued to fight up to the summit.
Koch and Eva Zarzuelo first German and first
Spaniard woman to Summit Nanga Parbat
in the late afternoon again we were all in Camp 4
together united after an arduous descent. Hajo had
accompanied and photographed them. The last down
from the summit with beautiful light late in the
afternoon. In Camp we were situated ourselves
everybody back healthy. We were convinced that for the
weather would hold again for tomorrow.
Eva Zarzuelo und Hajo Netzer on the Summit of
night brought almost a small disaster: The mountain
leader Abele Blanc from the Aosta valley, acting
parallel at the mountain to us, had turned back from
an attempt on the Messner-Route because of technical
problems and then attempted our route. In an
"express" ascend in our tracks and using our
fixed ropes they were on the Summit in the afternoon
after us. During the descent they had got lost and
Christian and Abele came to us in Camp 4. Stefan Andre
was lost somewhere. Somewhere, no one knew where,
Stefan " had been lost ". In any case he
turned up the next morning - not without a large
embarrassment to all - Stefan, in the descent, had bivouacked
and so the story had a happy ending.
next day, Sunday 7/1, we descended 3000 meters. With
pouring rain we ran in the night at 23:00 o'clock in
base camp. A part of the crew and the high carriers
[porters] still remained in camp II, in order to
carry the next morning with much trouble the
remaining tents downward.
(expedition) was a big new undertaking. Many voices
were raised - as in '94 on K2 - saying that Nanga
Parbat was too big technically difficult for an
professionally led organized expedition. As with every
expedition we naturally needed a good portion of luck.
When 14 persons are ascending tens of thousands of
meters in altitude you cannot afford any mistakes -
and to accomplish this you need some luck. But in
spite of this I think on this expedition we had
gathered so much experience in the guides and on the
basis of this experience could choose
expedition-members that were fit and capable of
undertaking such a serious expedition. This was not a
"relying-on-luck" expedition in this
fellow guide Najo Netzer, who is also my friend,
brought language-skills and innovation and thereby
brought quality to the leadership of this expedition.
This surely made big contribution to the possibilities
and chances of success of a guided expedition. He was
always the critical voice and in this way contributed
in making my decisions clearer and more transparent to
the expedition-members. Also this resulted in a
stronger focus on security. I wish to thank Hajo for
this, and also the members for putting their trust in
us. I am convinced that with the necessary degree of
experience, motivation, humor, leadership and
sacrifice, but also patience makes it possible with
expeditions of this size and ambition. The challenge
for this type of expedition is on the lower 8000'ers,
7- and 6000 meter high mountains.
are still going to be another week on the road before
we are on the plane back to London. It has been a good
time with exchange of ideas, interesting conversation,
many jokes and good mountaineering. I hope you all
have enjoyed our information and hope to soon tell
more stories from some other place.
would also like to thank my long-time personal
sponsors SCHΦFFEL, GORETEX footwear, CICLO, IBM
Schweiz and Sparkasse Bόhl. Without the financial
help from these companies I would NOT have been able
to plan and go through with projects of this size in
addition to many other activities.
full dispatches in German see here!
On Saturday, June 30th between 9:00 and 12:00 o'clock, the
AMICAL Alpin Nanga Parbat team reached the summit of 8125
meters high Nanga Parbat. Among them the first Spanish and
German woman. After the climbers are back in base camp we
expect a report of "the exciting moments of the
summit". For today best greetings, the AMICAL Alpin team
6/30/2001 10:40AM US Time:
"We just received a Sat phone call from
Nanga Parbat Base Camp that the two Nanga Parbat
expeditions, German led by Ralf
Dujmovits and Italian led by Christian Kuntner
reached the summit. All are celebrating at the base
camp and so are we here in Islamabad for this
successful ascend. Ralf took 12 members out of 13
along with his 2 high altitude ports. The details will
be sent soon....
Focus Nanga Parbat Expedition let by Christian Kuntner
also reached the summit. They were total 6 members and
we don't know how many made the summit, but will let
you know as soon as we the latest news. I will send
more details as soon as I get them." Cheers,
NEWSFLASH 6/30/2001: At the moment the expedition
group and Ralf are not available because they are in
the high altitude camps. With little snow expected,
they hope to be on the Summit of
Nanga Parbat Friday
or Saturday. Essar Karim
6/30/2001: EverestNews.com believes climbers were high on the
mountain on Friday... Stay Tuned...
weather at Nanga Parbat is better now. Today the group and
Ralf will arrive at Camp II.
regards Nicola AMICAL Alpin
Continuous precipitation had left progress stopped
at Camp 1. The bad weather returned and caused us to
retreat at the end of last week to base camp. On
Tuesday of last week Charly Gabl Director/Conductor of
the weather service in Innsbruck, a leader and
experienced Himalayan mountain climber - told us over
the satellite telephone that we would have this
weather on the weekend too. Which was quite precise.
During the entire week we had bad weather because of a
weather system within the area of north Pakistan and
Nanga Parbat. Naturally
the motivation of everyone suffers.
large improvement in the weather was not expected
soon. We had to cancel our planed trip to Camp 1 on
Thursday. In the afternoon, Veikka Gustafsson from
Finland - we were 1994 together on the K2 - and the
American Ed Viesturs - arrived back in base
tents have broken poles as you can see. Poles had
punctured tent and water got on all the
equipment. We dug out the tent and salvaged what
equipment we could. One tent was a complete loss,
but we were able to repair others. Then it begin
to snow again heavily.
are writing in our journals and having fun despite the
bad weather. Our weather report from Innsbruck expects
the weather to be bad until Monday. We have to let the
snow settle before moving up again.
greetings from the Nanga Parbat base Camp,