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 The IG0 8000 Advantage for Everest 2001

Did IMG have inside information when their Sherpas and two of their unguided climbers reached the Summit first this year on Everest? That was the question some asked...

Since we have several stories to write and this one is getting old. We are going to give you the short answer !


As reported on EverestNews.com, during the Everest 2001 season, several expeditions including some of the IGO 8000 expeditions initially were trying out some free weather reports and weather reports from other sources rather than what the expeditions have used the last few years on Everest. You see the Bracknell reports that have been used for the last 5 years on Everest by the IGO 8000 expeditions are very expensive. Few expeditions want to pay SEVERAL thousand of dollars for weather reports. Henry Todd, the veteran expedition leader was not on the mountain this year to buy and resell the reports.

But after problems with the other reports, one Expedition leader stated to EverestNews.com, "After trying the free weather service, the IGO 8000 members, 4 expeditions in all, 2 on each side decide to pay for the tried and tested Bracknell forecasting as in the past 5 years. One other experienced team had asked to be involved in the usual cost sharing basis."

They had spent the bucks once again, with Henry Todd once again as the broker. Others were not so kind, called the other weather sources, jokes and just horribly inaccurate, and other not PG 13 rated comments.

These expensive Bracknell weather reports, according to two of the expeditions, called the Summit window of the IMG climbers perfectly. So while others were at BC or ABC complaining about bad weather forecasts, the IMG climbers were moving up. Other IGO 8000 members decided to wait, based on the fact the Bracknell reports were predicting the weather to hold.

When we see the IGO climbers going up and others staying we asked. The answer was, "Of course Bracknell called this weather, that's why all our people are up the hills, it should last at least till Friday, but don't report that in case it all goes wrong. There will be a big rush now and that is not the safest way, sensible ones will plan to summit Wednesday/Thursday but we'll see."

Wednesday/Thursday was May23/24. Perfect weather (On Everest)

Another comment, "What I feel will happen now is that there will be a rush which will open the route up high, there could be problems with numbers, then as the conditions improve other teams will follow in easier conditions, as the trail will harden and not be filled in with new snow. But we'll see."

Himalayan Experience and the second IMG Summit team, and the Himalayan Guides Lhotse Expedition (all IGO 8000 members) would wait until May 23/24th.

Of course, as things turned out, if the weather would have turned bad we might very well have two less climbers coming home. But because the climbers had great weather at 8000 meters up high on Everest, they are coming home.

Of course, even the best weather reports are never always right. This is an extremely high risk sport where people DIE every year, not because they are stupid but because people die climbing.

One Expedition leader stated, "One, It should be mentioned that those leaders involved in the Bracknell forecasts are all IGO8000 members with 30 to 40 Everest expeditions behind them, so it's also possible that they may know a thing or two."

It does appear the IGO members and their climbers got what they paid for and more on Everest in 2001.

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