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 David Lim: ASCENT 8000

Hi, EverestNews.com, April 27, 2002: ABC has been lashed with winds up to 35km/h for the past 2 days plus a bunch of snow. The weather forecasts from Met Service Singapore predict similar weather until tomorrow. It's been pretty miserable these past two days here but better than being up high on the mountain. We got off the high camps just in time.

But down here, the winds and snow have made temperatures drop to -2degrees inside the  tents.  This has been the most depressing spring expedition weather I have seen. It's almost May but the weather is refusing to understand this! Huddling around a candle in the evenings and thinking about the persistent wind slamming our tent......

Dave headed for Intermediate Camp (5800m) and beyond with a very full (20 kg) pack with sleeping bag, down suit, climbing boots, food, stove etc. The big hill is over to the left in the background

We will most likely be heading for the summit over a period of 4 days beginning next Tuesday or Wednesday. It'll be tough. Returning climbers
have reported chest deep snow at the 7000m mark. There are none of the well-established paths kicked in by climbers on such peaks simply because the consistently poor weather has obliterated each set of footprints every day or every few days. Compared to the hundreds of climbers on Everest as well, only about 10% as many are here. The number of new teams arriving have barely got off making a trip to Depot/Intermediate Camp, let alone the higher ones

Apparently according to the sherpas here, amongst the non-sherpas, only I have slept at the 6800m / C2 level. This bodes well for acclimatisation. Still, the summit push will be very daunting and the odds stacked against us. From C2, I'll be going with MB to a high pass for Camp 3 and then from there a knife edge ridge to the Central Summit (8008m). If conditions look OK, we may try to head to the Main Summit at 8012m, just 4 meters higher but some distance away. A combination with the Amical Alpin team seems most realistic - the two of us can't do it alone. 

To enable my second climb on Cho Oyu to have a realistic timetable, I need to make the summit attempt this coming week and return to ABC by May 8th.

David Lim
Singapore Disabled Ascents of Shishapangma and Cho Oyu 2002

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