A Slovenian Expedition
is attemptting to conquer Nanga
Parbat. Tomaz Humar is
leading the ten members expedition to 8125m high mountain.
The Team will try to climb in Solo style from the Rupal route.
Tomaz is best known for this new line on
Dhaulagiri in 1999 when
he ascended up to approx 8000 meters [he did not summit]
Fourth acclimatization attempt:
Just over a month after his departure from Slovenia, Tomaz Humar will try for
the fourth time to complete acclimatization for the ascent of Nanga Parbat.
Despite extremely unfavourable weather and health conditions, which have
greatly hindered his venture so far, he started ascending along the Messner
route on the 18th. Due to health problems, four of the expedition members are
on their way to Ljubljana earlier than planned. If Humar fails to complete the
acclimatization ascent again, he and the rest of the team will follow them
Tomaz Humar already tried to
complete the acclimatization ascent three times. His success was prevented
twice by unfavourable weather destroying Altitude Camps, the third time he was
defeated by illness. After a visit from a Pakistani doctor in Base Camp, it
was established that amoeba has been causing the illness. The reason this was
not realised earlier was that no lab analysis could be performed at the
mountain's base. According to Miran Rems, M. D., who accompanied a Slovene
expedition to Nanga Parbat thirteen years ago, 'it is impossible to establish
whether a virus or bacteria is causing the problems without lab analysis,
essential for medical treatment. One can only guess about the possible causes:
did they bring the virus with them, were food or water contaminated, or did
the infection originate through contact with environment – there are still
sheep and yaks grazing at this altitude.' Despite all these facts mountaineer
and reporter Urban Golob is leaving for the Himalayas in the beginning of next
week. He was also a member of the expedition that took place thirteen years
ago. He realizes that 'treating the consequences of viruses, bacteria, etc.,
is something completely different when done in the Himalayas, as opposed to
lying in your bed at home. Especially since this microscopic organisms, which
are causing the disease, are extremely active and obstruct rehabilitation.'
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See more here.