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George Dijmarescu Everest 2003


 George Dijmarescu: Everest 2003

American George Dijmarescu has Summited Everest four times from the North, once without oxygen. If he summits again this year it will be 5 consecutive times via the North route...


Report 6: Dear EverestNews.com readers, if you count me out is because you don't know my personality. Perhaps only my father anticipated it right and this because we are the same blood when he told my brother Claudio that, "he is not going to give up just because he had some equipment problems". And please let me explain the truth despite what had has spread online about me. I returned from my way to summit on May 22 from just bellow first step, I was climbing behind Lakpa and her brother Mingma Gelu Sherpa, my decision to return was a hard one, I will have to let Lakpa [his wife] to climb alone and this because my body was unable to generate heat, I was cold and the wind over 70 miles/hr adding to the wind chill factor, I cannot guest a mate what the temperature was but I can tell you that I was very cold and despite my desperate efforts to stay warm, I wasn't able to succeed, I removed my Oxygen mask, gasping for air, the gas I was suppose to receive wasn't enough, I express my feelings to Lakpa but she urged me to go on, I kept on going another half hour then again I told her I can't get warm, she again said is not so cold, I kept on going but this time Sunny [his daughter] came to me so vivid and I felt she is more important than any and all mountains in the world regardless of height or beauty. I turned to Lakpa and told her that this is my final decision, since my head lamp batteries went out inexplicably just like my wrist watch, I asked her if I can use hers on way down since her brother had one for both, she was generous enough and I started down the ridge, still dark but with Sun on curvature perhaps another hour to make its appearance. On my way down I met climbers going up, once 50 out of time, I needed to wait once half hour so I can descend a pitch 30 ft high. I think it took me 1.5hrs to reach last camp, I crawled into my tent and begin the sorrow, removed my mask which I just observed is way to heavy, the rubber bladder which is design to receive Oxygen was 3/4 full of big chunks of ice and the rubber tube which injects Oxygen deep down the bladder was solid like a stick, I knew is flexible and I bent it, making a noise just like you break a wood stick, immediately I look at my Oxygen regulator and to my shock it indicate 200. When I took it new was just a hair over 200. Now everything started to make sense. The Russian mask has a glass tube with a tiny piston attached to a sensible spring on the rubber tube from the regulator to mask which if is Oxygen pressure will move the piston more or less according to the pressure flow administered. So I look at the tiny piston every half hour and every time it showed Oxygen flow, but my mask rubber bladder was almost full with ice and also the tiny rubber tube which injected the Oxygen down the bladder was solid as a stick, then the pressure was indicated in the glass tube but the Oxygen never reached my starving lungs. Although I don't want to get into any conclusion just yet, my education and mechanical abilities tell me it can be only two things;; First it was a brand new mask, so is possible that the valves are defective and allow me to push the steamy breath into the bladder and little by little freezes and second, which I believe is more of the problem the Oxygen in my Poisk bottle wasn't dry, perhaps filled somewhere in the humidity of Kathmandu, but many will argue that Asian Trekking is a serious company and never do such things, well, I know well Asian Trekking and trust it with my life but most of the people don't even know how much a bottle of Oxygen can be sold here, higher camp, higher price, even $1000 a piece, so opportunity for some sherpa to make a fortune. With a salary of about 90000 Nepali Rupia or $1300 US is easy the temptation. Asian have catalogue their bottles with serial numbers and ours were filled in 2003 but it appear on our piles bottles filled in 2002, how can I explain this, simple. I like to put an end to this game and play with human life, yes Asian Trekking should crack down on this practice. Expeditions from previous year or seasons abandoned their stashes of Oxygen at high camps and those bottles are exposed to the elements of Everest for up to a year, according to Poisk this Oxygen should not be used, sherpa with years of experience know this and rush up to collect the prize, our sherpa found this season 25 bottles. Since I don't have any proof of misconduct from our sherpa, I do know that they don't bring down this old Oxygen, instead keep it there as the new expedition bottles and save the heavy work of transporting the new bottles in high camps, therefore shooting to birds with one cheap shot. Last year I reported that I almost lost my summit due to a bottle filled with air instead of Oxygen, if this year I was again the victim of a ''fixed bottle'' it must be believed that this practice is wide spread here in Everest. Commercial expedition do paint their bottles in various colors, apply personal sponsors stickers but vast majority use markers to write which expedition belong to, this is nothing. In conclusion I will keep this ''faulty mask'' and I will send it to an independent analysis in the US. New and new ways appear here with the precious gas, for instance, a 69 years old man from Russia was climbing on liquid Oxygen, for the chemists ''guess how''.

With all of our camps dismantled I must begin a new alpine style expedition, I must give myself another chance. Tomorrow May 27 I will ascend to camp one, then proceed forward with hope of summiting on May30th. I have no idea of weather forecast but with my visa expiring on June 2nd this is my last chance, I will pray (like always) for good weather this time. When this is over and I will get my hands on a larger computer I will report; which to many will be a shock what had happened with our expedition and why we didn't have better success. It shocked me cause I was the biggest supporter of these people. Stay tuned. George Dijmarescu, ABC Everest


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